Qualite in Gifu: Narezushi and Nature’s Gifts — The Wisdom of Fermentation

• Table of Contents
• Supporting Producers with Gifu Ingredients: Behind the Opening of qualite
• Gifu’s Treasure: Fermentation and Chef’s Encounter with Koji
• The World of Narezushi: The Ultimate Lactic Acid Fermentation
• Respect for Nature in a Single Dish
• Experience Nature's Symphony on Your Plate Even During Lunch
• Searching, Selecting, Creating - Simply Devoting Oneself to Nature’s Blessings
• Experience Gifu's Ingredients and Fermentation Culture From a Single Dish

Supporting Producers with Gifu Ingredients: Behind the Opening of qualite

About 20 minutes by bus and foot from Gifu Station, qualite is located in a corner of a residential area along the Nagara River.

In 2021, the over 100-year-old building was renovated and reopened as a warm and welcoming restaurant.

Owner and chef Masataka Nakane studied cooking in France and furthered his training as a chef at a bistro in Nagoya. He also has experience opening and producing restaurants in Japan and abroad.

His encounter with Gifu began when he visited the area to set up a new store. As he experienced the nature of the area and the warmth of the people, a change of heart gradually came over Nakane.

"When I was cooking in Nagoya, I often felt like it was hard to see the producers behind the ingredients. In Gifu, I have a sense of proximity that allows me to directly connect with the producers. That was the biggest draw."

True to its original concept, qualite focuses on using ingredients from Gifu Prefecture and values ​​being a restaurant where the faces of the producers are visible.

Nakane's intentions are also embedded in the restaurant's name, qualite. Qualite comes from the old reading of the Japanese word for sustenance (ka-te) and also means "fine" or "quality" in French.

"We hope to be a restaurant where you can experience Gifu's quality. A source of “sustenance” for these producers’ livelihood."

His powerful words exude his respect for the land of Gifu and his pride as a chef.

Nakane has a strong passion for Gifu , but is originally from Okazaki, Aichi Prefecture. Is there anything else about Gifu that he is deeply captivated by aside from its ingredients?

Gifu’s Treasure: Fermentation and Chef’s Encounter with Koji

After he opened qualite, Nakane realized he had received unexpected gifts from Gifu- the fermentation culture that has been passed down in Gifu and the abundant water source of the Nagara River.

The Nagara River, a first-class river, is a precious water source for the inland prefecture of Gifu. Using the underground water of the Nagara River, a diverse brewing culture developed along the Nagara River, which included the production of sake, miso, and soy sauce.

Qualite’s cuisine also uses fermented seasonings unique to Gifu, such as aged vinegar from Uchibori Vinegar and soy sauce from Ena Maruko Brewery.

Encouraged by this rich environment, Nakane also tried his hand at fermented cuisine. At first, he started out trying to expand his culinary repertoire and expression, but gradually became fascinated by the depth of fermentation culture.

Before he knew it, he had become so fascinated with fermentation culture that he even set up a koji bath at home.

Recently, they have started using "Koka no Shinsui" underground water nurtured in the mountains upstream of the Nagara River, as the water for the fermentation process. This underground water, referred to as ultra-soft water, is said to be ideal for speeding up the fermentation process.

Nakane's exploration of fermentation continues with relentless passion throughout the year, whether it's pickling yuzu in salt to prepare a year's supply of dressing, or making his own shio koji and rice koji.

Among the fermented delicacies that Nakane works on, the one that stands out in particular is narezushi, a dish that carries the traditions of Gifu Prefecture. He says that qualite is the only place in the prefecture where you can eat meat-based narezushi as part of a course meal.

What exactly is narezushi which Nakane makes with such extraordinary passion?

The World of Narezushi: The Ultimate Lactic Acid Fermentation

When talking about narezushi, it is essential to mention the tradition of cormorant fishing, that has been passed down for generations on the Nagara River. Cormorant fishing is a uniquely Japanese fishing technique that uses cormorants to catch sweetfish and boasts a history of over 1,300 years.

Sweetfish caught in this way are first salted for six months, then pickled with cooked rice for another six months, transforming them into narezushi imbued with the umami and acidity of fermentation. The pure water of the Nagara River, the bounty of sweetfish, and the wisdom of preservation. All of these aspects are channeled into the traditional dish of narezushi through the power of fermentation.

Currently, narezushi can only be eaten at a very limited number of restaurants in Gifu Prefecture. It is becoming more and more rare every year due to the heat waves causing the sweetfish to melt and making it difficult to regulate temperatures during fermentation.

Nakane says that when he first tried making narezushi, he had trouble adjusting the temperature and humidity. However, he was able to arrive at its current flavor today through trial and error such as moving the fish to the refrigerator midway through the fermentation process to stop maturation.

The narezushi that Nakane creates is an outstanding dish with a texture and flavor that makes it hard to believe it has been aged for a year. Rather than a sharp tangy flavor, it has a mellow texture that allows you to quietly taste the umami of the sweetfish and is full of a charm that makes you want to thoroughly savor it with all five senses.

The blessings of the Nagara River and wisdom of the local people come to life in each slice of narezushi. Next, we will take a closer look at the appeal of the "Fermentation Course," where you can eat this ultimate fermented gourmet dish.

Respect for Nature in a Single Dish

This time, we had the "Fermentation Course" for dinner (9,000 yen/tax included). This is a special multi-course meal (*) packed with fermented gourmet food typically offered to those who make reservations during the Hakko Tourism Tokai event (May 17 - July 13, 2025).

It was mid-March and the cold winter weather still lingered. After handing my coat over to the waiter who greeted me and taking a seat, the first thing I did was choose a drink.

The Secret of KOMBUCHA: Not Kelp Tea

Among the local Gifu sakes, wines, and selection of teas on display, the unfamiliar word KOMBUCHA caught my eye. It is a craft drink made by fermenting tea leaves with water, sugar, and acetic acid bacteria, and is available in three flavors at qualite: sencha (green tea), jasmine, and rose.

Prompted by Nakane's invitation, "Fermenting a drink is a little unusual, isn't it?", I ordered the sencha flavor.

The Sencha KOMBUCHA has a calming herbal aroma and a light, effervescence when sipped.

The refreshing and clear taste has great potential to pair well with meat and fish. If you tried it without knowing what it was, you'd never guess it was a fermented drink - it's so refreshing and easy to drink.

Marvel at a Rich Flavor Only Achievable Through Fermentation

While I was amazed at the depth of KOMBUCHA, the appetizers and soup were brought out.

The appetizer uses fermented Chinese cabbage while the soup was prepared with homemade koji rice, making this a multi-course meal full of fermented ingredients.

The simmered radish topped with a fermented Chinese cabbage sauce is a new sensation that combines a tongue-tingling acidity with the flavor of yuzu.

The soup has a rich sweetness from the potato that spreads the tongue with the richness of the koji rice as a lingering aftertaste.

The Diverse Culture of Narezushi on One Plate

As I was savoring the dishes that gently warmed my body, Nakane's signature narezushi made its appearance.

Thanks to their generosity, we were able to taste and compare two types of narezushi, one aged for one year and the other aged for two years, each with a different flavor.

The one-year aged sweetfish has a mild acidity, allowing the umami flavor of the sweetfish to gently come through. The flesh is still firm, so the more you chew, the deeper the flavor becomes.

Next, the two-year aged fish has soft, flaky meat, followed by a smoky aroma that wafts through your nose.

Both dishes were delicacies, yet each dish was unique to Nakane, with an exquisite balance of tradition and flavor.

The next warm appetizer was pork narezushi, also known as fermented sausage. It is a preserved food made by mixing pork, rice, salt, sugar, garlic, and chili peppers and fermenting with lactic acid. Despite being raw pork, it is safe to eat thanks to the effects of lactic acid bacteria.

In Laos, a landlocked country like Gifu, this dish is said to be eaten under the name "Som Moo."

When I took a bite, I was surprised by how refreshing it was, like a squeeze of lemon. It is a powerful yet sophisticated dish that combines the umami of juicy meat with the lightness brought about by fermentation.

Refreshing and Bold - Two Opposite Main Dishes

Making a grand appearance as the two main dishes are a luxurious block-cut of pork narezushi and charcoal-grilled Hida chicken.

The well-cooked pork narezushi is so light and tender that you'll forget it's a fermented dish. The mildly sweet turnip sauce balances out the sourness.

The local free-range chicken, on the other hand, has the perfect balance of a sweet-savory meat sauce and the fragrant smokiness of charcoal. The chicken, packed with flavor, spreads richly on the palate.

Fermentation not only deepens the flavor, but also adds an accent of acidity and aroma. Nakane carefully draws out this multifaceted charm in each dish.

*The ingredients and menu of this course are subject to change. Outside of the event period from May 17 to July 13, 2025, it is possible to add meat or sweetfish narezushi to the course by requesting it at the time of reservation (prior consultation required).

Experience Nature's Symphony on Your Plate Even During Lunch

On Fridays and Saturdays only, qualite also offers a lunch course, where you can taste fermented gourmet food made with rich ingredients from Gifu to your heart's content.

Lunch at qualite is a select menu where you can choose your salad, mains and other options after arriving at the restaurant.

This time, we focused on a menu that made generous use of fermented delicacies.

The appetizer we chose was "Natural Nagara River Sweetfish with Dressing," a carefully handmade salad served with a mysterious dressing made with sweetfish.

Although there is no meat to be seen, the aroma and refreshing acidity of the sweetfish blends naturally with the vegetables.

The second dish is a creamy Jerusalem artichoke soup made with homemade rice malt. It has no pungency or bitterness whatsoever; and its thick yogurt-like creaminess and rich umami flavor derived from rice malt leave a lasting impression.

For the main course, we selected roast venison with fermented ginger bug. The venison doesn’t have a strong smell, and when eaten with the ginger bug, it develops an even more mellow flavor.

It was so tender, you’d never guess it was game meat, and the quality of the red meat stood out.

After the meal, I was served the dessert of the day made by Nakane's wife, the pastry chef.

They are also sold individually wrapped pastries at the counter, making them the perfect small gift.

Searching, Selecting, Creating - Simply Devoting Oneself to Nature’s Blessings

When Nakane opened qualite, he had the desire to "support producers in Gifu." This desire is not only limited to the dishes in the courses, but is also deeply ingrained in the fermented seasonings used, the organic vegetables sold in front of the restaurant, and even the decorations that adorn the interior of the restaurant.

Take KOMBUCHA, a craft drink that can be ordered with the dinner course, for example. It is made from fermented ingredients such as aged vinegar (Uchibori Vinegar in Kamo), soy sauce (Ena Maruko Brewery in Ena), mirin and cooking sake (Hakusen Shuzo in Kamo), all of which are products created from the fermentation culture centered in Gifu and Aichi.

It is an important piece that shapes the flavor of qualite.

Nakane says, "There is not a single ingredient or seasoning we use that we don't know the producer of." His words were filled with confidence and sincerity.

What's more, they order everything from the chopsticks used to eat salad to knives, chairs, tables, and lighting from producers in Gifu Prefecture.

The handiwork of producers who carry on inherited techniques and take quiet pride in their craft comes together at qualite, which is then passed on to the next person.

This restaurant is filled with respect for nature and Nakane's strong desire to convey and support the essence of Gifu.

Experience Gifu's Ingredients and Fermentation Culture From a Single Dish

Nakane, the owner and chef of qualite, has a fascination for Gifu Prefecture, where fermentation culture is deeply rooted and where he has close contact with producers.

Having honed his skills in France and Nagoya, Nakane has discovered the great qualities of Gifu, and it is perhaps because of this that he is able to fully express the appeal of the ingredients and producers on his dishes.

The fermentation process, in which temperature, humidity, and microbial activity are intricately intertwined, is one such expression he has arrived at.

The water from the Nagara River and a fermentation culture that developed in order to survive the winter; the fact that these two things have come together to create what is now attracting attention to this area as the "ultimate fermented gourmet food" evokes almost a miraculous sense of awe. 

To access qualite, take the bus from JR Gifu Station for nine stops, get off at Honmachi 3-chome, then walk for about two minutes. You can also take a taxi for about 10 minutes.

Additionally, it is about a 10-minute walk from Mount Kinka, where Gifu Castle is located, so we recommend combining your visit with sightseeing.

Please enjoy this beautiful culinary work of art while reflecting on Nakane's passions and the wisdom of fermentation cultivated in Gifu.