What is HAKKO?
Fermentation: Enhancing Flavor and Nutrition
Cheese, sauerkraut, yogurt, wine, kimchi—fermented foods are enjoyed all over the world. Long before refrigerators existed, people discovered the power of salt and beneficial microbes to preserve food for extended periods. This ancient wisdom laid the foundation for many of the delicious and nutritious foods we enjoy today.
Fermentation occurs when good bacteria and microorganisms transform raw ingredients—such as milk, vegetables, and fruit—into foods that are richer in flavor and better for your health. These transformed foods are known as fermented foods.
Japan is home to a wide variety of fermented foods, with some of the most famous being sake (Japanese rice wine), soy sauce, and miso. In addition, natto (fermented soybeans), tsukemono (pickled vegetables), and fish sauce are just a few examples of regional specialties found across the country.
One of the defining features of Japanese fermentation is the use of koji, which is made from rice. While koji is said to have originated in China, a key difference is that in China, it is typically made using wheat or soybeans, whereas in Japan, rice is the main ingredient.
Fermented Seasonings: The Backbone of Washoku
In 2013, Washoku (traditional Japanese cuisine) was recognized as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage, gaining worldwide popularity for its delicious, healthy, and beautifully balanced approach to food. While Washoku is often described as a cuisine that enhances the natural flavors of ingredients, the real secret behind its depth of taste lies in its fundamental seasonings.
These essential seasonings are collectively known as "Sa-Shi-Su-Se-So", the ABC’s of Washoku:
Sa (さ) → Sato (Sugar), Sake (Japanese rice wine), Mirin (sweet rice wine) *
Shi (し) → Shio (salt)
Su (す) → Su (Vinegar)
Se (せ) → Seuyu (the historical spelling of Shoyu, or Soy Sauce)
So (そ) → Miso (Fermented soybean paste)
With the exception of salt and sugar, all of these seasonings are fermented. In other words, Washoku simply wouldn’t exist without fermentation!
And here’s something remarkable—every single one of these key fermented seasonings is produced in Nagoya. Nagoya is unique in its ability to practice "chisan-chisho" (local production for local consumption) even when it comes to seasonings, further deepening the region’s culinary identity.
And here’s something remarkable—every single one of these key fermented seasonings is produced in Nagoya. Nagoya is unique in its ability to practice "chisan-chisho" (local production for local consumption) even when it comes to seasonings, further deepening the region’s culinary identity.
* While the word mirin does not start with "sa," it is often grouped under "sa" because it is a sweet rice wine.
Nagoya’s fermented seasonings carry a history spanning hundreds of years, with traditional methods carefully passed down through generations. Welcome to the deep and diverse world of Nagoya’s fermentation culture!
Unraveling Nagoya’s Fermentation Through Sushi
Sushi is loved all over the world, but let’s take a closer look at a table set with sushi. You’ll see beautifully arranged pieces of sushi with fresh fish atop seasoned rice, a steaming bowl of miso soup on the side, and if you're lucky, a glass of sake to complete the meal. Now, here’s something fascinating—every key ingredient in this meal can be sourced from Nagoya!
Vinegared rice
Tamagoyaki (Japanese omelet)
Sashimi soy sauce
Sweet sauce
Miso soup
Japanese sake
Vinegared Rice (sushi rice) = Rice + Vinegar + Salt + Sugar
Let’s start with the sushi rice (shari). The rice used in sushi is seasoned with a special mixture of vinegar, salt, and sugar, creating what’s known as sumeshi (vinegared rice).
Sushi, now synonymous with Japanese food, became a huge sensation in Edo (modern-day Tokyo) thanks to the increasing availability of vinegar. In the past, vinegar was a luxury item, but when it became affordable to the common people, Edomae sushi took off as a major food trend. The key player behind this transformation? Mizkan Vinegar, born in Handa City, Aichi Prefecture.
Sushi, now synonymous with Japanese food, became a huge sensation in Edo (modern-day Tokyo) thanks to the increasing availability of vinegar. In the past, vinegar was a luxury item, but when it became affordable to the common people, Edomae sushi took off as a major food trend. The key player behind this transformation? Mizkan Vinegar, born in Handa City, Aichi Prefecture.
Tamagoyaki = White Soy Sauce + Mikawa Mirin
Now, let’s focus on what’s placed on top of the rice—the sushi toppings (neta). Take tamago sushi, for example. If we break down the flavors in the sweet, fluffy omelet (tamagoyaki), we find that it’s seasoned with white soy sauce and mirin.
White soy sauce adds a delicate balance of saltiness and umami while preserving the egg’s beautiful yellow color. Mirin enhances the sweetness, creating a perfectly harmonized flavor. Hekinan City is known as the birthplace of white soy sauce, and to this day, it is home to three breweries dedicated solely to its production. Meanwhile, Mikawa Mirin, which was widely used in Edo-period eel and soba restaurants, also hails from Hekinan. With its deep richness, umami, and complex aroma, Mikawa Mirin stands apart from the rest, adding a refined depth of flavor to countless dishes.
Sashimi Soy Sauce = Tamari Soy Sauce
Next to your sushi, you’ll always find soy sauce. In Nagoya, the go-to soy sauce for sashimi is tamari soy sauce. Unlike the more widely used koikuchi (dark) soy sauce, tamari is preferred for dipping sashimi due to its rich and bold flavor. Made with 90–100% soybeans and very little wheat, tamari soy sauce is packed with deep umami flavor. It is said that tamari originated from the liquid that naturally seeped out of fermenting miso, which was so delicious that people began producing it separately from miso itself. In Taketoyo Town, you’ll find numerous breweries dedicated to crafting tamari soy sauce and soybean-based miso using 100% soybeans—a tradition that continues to this day.
Ama-Dare (Sweet sause) = Tamari Soy Sauce + Mikawa Mirin
In Edo, alongside sushi, grilled eel (kabayaki) was also gaining popularity. The sweet, savory glaze used for kabayaki eel and anago (saltwater eel) sushi is made from a combination of tamari soy sauce from Taketoyo and Mikawa Mirin from Hekinan.
Miso Soup (Aka Dashi) = Soybean Miso + Rice Miso
And let’s not forget about miso soup! In this region, miso soup is typically made with a blend of soybean miso and rice miso, creating the distinctive "Aka Dashi" (red miso soup) that is unique to Nagoya. Nagoya is home to many soybean miso breweries, but one stands out—Hatcho Miso from Okazaki. This miso is aged for two to three years in large wooden barrels, with stones carefully stacked on top to aid the fermentation process. The result is a deep, rich miso that becomes even more flavorful when simmered.
Sake = Japanese Sake + Tokoname Ware Sake Cups
Of course, the best drink to enjoy with sushi is Japanese sake—and why not go the extra mile and choose a sake cup with craftsmanship to match? Tokoname City, the closest city to Chubu Centrair International Airport, is home to a wide variety of Japanese sake, ranging from the bold, umami-rich styles that pair perfectly with Nagoya’s flavorful cuisine to internationally acclaimed, refined varieties. It is also a historic center of Tokoname-yaki, a pottery tradition with over 1,000 years of history.