Okazaki's Culinary Heritage: The 400-Year Legacy of Hatcho Miso and Its Connection to the Shogunate

• [text_no_translate=Table of Contents]
• Day Trip to Okazaki
• 1. Get a First Taste of Hatcho Miso for Breakfast
• 2. Dive Deeper Into Hatcho Miso’s Past and Present
• 3. Okazaki Kakukyu Hachomura: Enjoy a Lunch Menu Using Hatcho Miso
• 4. Walk to Okazaki Castle and Okazaki Castle Park
• 6. Afternoon Tea Time at Jonantei　
• Conclusion

Day Trip to Okazaki

Nagoya is a well-known city often considered the gateway to the Chubu region. However, Okazaki is situated in the eastern Mikawa region, approximately 40 minutes by train from Nagoya Station and about 70 minutes from Central Japan International Airport, Nagoya (NGO). It provides travelers with the chance to experience the rich history of Japanese samurai culture alongside modern cuisine.Okazaki is a walkable and welcoming city, making it perfect for a day trip focused on its seasonal beauty and local specialty: miso.

At the heart of the city is Okazaki Castle, surrounded by a park that is considered one of the best hanami spots in the country during springtime. The beautifully restored castle is the birthplace of the legendary shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu. His remarkable life inspired the award-winning TV series “Shogun,” which depicts the unification of Japan and the beginning of the Tokugawa period.

Within walking distance of Okazaki Castle Park is the famous Haccho-machi (formerly Haccho Village), named after the "haccho" (approximately 870 meters) distance from Okazaki Castle. Haccho-machi is known as the birthplace of Haccho miso, a favorite food of the Tokugawa clan and a Aka miso paste made using a unique method.

Two miso breweries open to the public, Maruya and Kakukyu, still produce Hatcho miso using traditional methods that are nearly 400 years old. Both breweries are conveniently located on Hatchogura Street and offer guided tours of their facilities. Visitors are treated to informative tours and tasting courses.

Whether you love a healthy plant-based diet (as was the Shogun's diet during the Edo period), Japanese history or binge-watching the latest TV shows, there are plenty of reasons to visit Okazaki.

Here’s an Okazaki day trip itinerary to get you started below!

How to get to Okazaki:
Take the Meitetsu Line from Nagoya Station to Higashi Okazaki Station. The journey takes about 30 minutes and is a great day trip option for those staying in or flying Nagoya .

CAPTION: At Okazaki Castle, where Tokugawa Ieyasu was born, there are enjoyable and interactive exhibits alongside displays of the cultural and traditional industries of this prosperous castle town.

1. Get a First Taste of Hatcho Miso for Breakfast

First things first, we recommend having breakfast to give you energy for the day. Head to the Haccho district and find Sakura Agepanya, conveniently located near Hacchogura Street and Okazaki Castle. Sakura Agepanya is an unassuming yet charming little shop serving up some of the most unique breads and pastries in Okazaki City.

Their specialty bread, the Rice Flour Walnut Miso Bread, has a wonderful chewy texture and pairs well with the sweet Maruya Hatcho Miso paste with walnuts. This sweet and salty chewy bread is almost mistaken for mochi. It's the perfect snack to showcase the versatility of Hatcho Miso as an ingredient. Try it with a cup of matcha or your morning coffee.

Caption: Komeko Kurumi Miso Pan (rice flour walnut miso bread) has a wonderfully chewy texture and is filled with sweet Maruya Hatcho miso and walnuts.

Another popular item is the Natural Sakura Yeast Bread made with yeast collected from cherry blossom petals from a tree planted during Ieyasu's childhood. Dubbed Ieyasu's Sakura Yeast, Natural Sakura Yeast Bread has a subtle aroma and gentle sweetness. This is from the carefully selected yeast and ingredients that are slowly fermented for about 72 hours before baking. The results are definitely worth the wait!

2. Dive Deeper Into Hatcho Miso’s Past and Present

After being introduced to the taste of Hatcho miso for breakfast, it’s time to learn how this magical ingredient is made and to try the real thing straight from the source. It’s a short walk from Sakura Bakery to two miso breweries that have been producing Hatcho Miso using traditional methods since the early Edo Period (1603-1868): Maruya Hatcho Miso and Kakukyu Hatcho Miso.

*Old Tokaido...This was the road that connected Edo (present-day Tokyo) and Kyoto, and was used by many people and goods to travel.

As the two factories are adjacent to each other, you can tour both factories and compare the different flavors of Hatcho miso in the same place, all at once.

Hatcho Miso is a soy-based miso made solely from soybeans and salt. The name is derived from the fact that two long-established breweries, facing each other across the old Tokaido road, are located in the Hatcho district of Okazaki City. Both have been producing this miso using traditional methods since the early Edo Period (1603-1868).

Furthermore, Hatcho miso is a rare type of miso that has been preserved as a unique food culture in this region.

While miso is typically made using rice or barley koji, Hatcho Miso is made solely from soybeans. This enhances its nutritional value while adding a rich and robust flavor. As a result, the taste differs from that of regular miso, which tends to be sweeter and offers a complex flavor profile with acidity, astringency, and bitterness. 

The delicious taste and nutritional value likely supported the activities of samurai during the Sengoku Period (1467-1603).*Sengoku Period: an era also known as “The Warring States Period,” during which regional warriors or the daimyo (feudal lord) fought amongst themselves for control and governance.

Caption: The impressive Kakukyu brewery still maintains the look and feel of another era while updating its facilities with high-tech hand-packing facilities, a historical museum, a fully-stocked gift shop, and a restaurant.  

Moreover, these two breweries have been passing down traditional methods that date back to the Edo Period to the present day.

While stainless steel casks have become common in modern times for their convenience, these breweries still utilize massive cedar casks that are about 2 meters in diameter and height. The ingredients for the miso are placed inside these casks. Using traditional methods, the craftsmen stack a total of 3 tons of weight in a conical shape on top. They continue to uphold this age-old technique in their production.

By the way, this stonework is stacked with such exquisite balance that it can withstand even a major earthquake, and it is said that it takes more than 10 years to master this technique.

Furthermore, if the stones are not stacked evenly, it can affect the taste of the miso, so this is a very important task.

Visiting Maruya Hatcho Miso and Kakukyu Hatcho Miso will be a wonderful experience where you can sense the history and techniques that have been passed down from the Edo Period to the present day.

The factory tour includes an explanation of the process of making Hatcho miso, a tour of the storehouse where the miso is brewed, and finally a chance to taste the miso.

After learning about Hatcho miso, you will be able to taste the miso, and not only will you be able to enjoy the original taste of miso, but you will also be able to feel the effort and passion of the people involved in making it, providing a special dining experience that can only be had here.

Caption: Hatcho miso dengaku (konnyaku) is served to guests during the Maruya factory tour. Both breweries are conveniently located on Hatchokura-dori Street and offer informative tours and tasting courses for visitors. Follow your gut, and learn about this culinary building block of washoku (Japanese cuisine) that even the samurai loved.

During the Kakukyu Hatcho Miso brewery tour, you’ll visit a 400-year-old miso warehouse to learn about Hatcho miso production before tasting a bowl of warm miso soup. This soup is made with Hatcho miso and the other with akadashi*. Once your appetite is piqued, you can indulge in hot, chewy konnyaku topped with miso dengaku, a rich Hatcho miso sauce. 

*Akadashi miso…. This type of miso is created by combining rice miso and other ingredients with Hatchō miso (soybean miso). The result is a rich, umami flavor with a slight sweetness.

Kakukyu’s Hatcho miso boasts a surprisingly complex flavor, featuring a nutty umami that is complemented by a well-balanced bitterness and a straightforward saltiness. It serves as an excellent base for broths and savory sauces. In contrast, Maruya’s Hatcho miso presents a different flavor profile—it's perhaps nuttier, slightly less salty, and more acidic.

Maruya's Hatcho miso, on the other hand, has a different flavor profile, being nuttier, a little less salty, and more sour.

The difference in the taste of these misos is said to be due to the different bacteria that live in each company's brewery, a difference that cannot be proven by science, even if they are made using almost the same traditional manufacturing methods. Visitors are encouraged to try both brands to understand the complexities and differences.

3. Okazaki Kakukyu Hachomura: Enjoy a Lunch Menu Using Hatcho Miso

After your tour of the Kakukyu and/or Maruya Hatcho miso breweries, you’ll likely be hungry for lunch. Fortunately, there’s an excellent dining option available right inside the Kakukyu facilities.

The menu features a variety of healthy Hatcho miso-themed dishes, including the popular Yuba Tempura Miso Stewed Udon—a rich and savory udon noodle dish served with tempura-style yuba (boiled tofu skin)—and the Miso Katsu set meal, which includes a juicy breaded pork cutlet topped with miso, along with sides of shredded cabbage, Hatcho miso soup, and a bowl of rice.

Rest assured, you won’t leave feeling hungry.  

4. Walk to Okazaki Castle and Okazaki Castle Park

After a delicious lunch of Hatcho miso, it's time to explore the beautiful park grounds of Okazaki Castle, where Shogun Ieyasu was born, where he ate so much miso, and where the scenery changes with the seasons.

The park features a beautiful seasonal atmosphere throughout the year, but it is particularly stunning in spring when cherry blossoms and wisteria are in bloom. It has been named one of 'Japan's Top 100 Cherry Blossom Spots' by the Japan Cherry Blossom Association. 

Other highlights of the park grounds include the Otemon Gate, statues of the great shogun Ieyasu, and the Ieyasu Clock Tower, which features an animatronic doll of Tokugawa Ieyasu performing Noh. However, the true highlight is the beautifully maintained trees, pathways, and the riverside along the Oto River. 

If you linger long enough, you may have the chance to see the Great Ieyasu Aoi Bushotai, a performing samurai team wandering the grounds in full suits of armor. It’s a wonderful reminder to visit the Mikawa Warriors and Ieyasu Museum. 

This modern and sleek museum features interactive digital exhibitions that appeal to both adults and children. It focuses on the Mikawa samurai who supported Tokugawa Ieyasu from his birth through the unification of Japan, allowing visitors to explore his character. Guests can view authentic armor and swords, and even try on helmets.

The Mikawa Bushi Ieyasu Museum features samurai armor on display and a moving diorama theater, depicting the history of Tokugawa Ieyasu's struggle to unify Japan.

The second, third, and fourth floors of Okazaki Castle have been transformed into a museum space filled with samurai armor, weapons, and three-dimensional models of the local area from that period.

Climb to the fifth-floor observatory, and you'll be rewarded with a panoramic view of Okazaki and the greater Mikawa region of Aichi Prefecture.

6. Afternoon Tea Time at Jonantei　

Located within the castle park grounds, Jonantei is a traditional Japanese tea house that serves delicious matcha and Japanese wagashi (sweets), offered both separately and in moderately priced sets.

The main room inside has limited seating; however, there are private rooms and ample outdoor seating that features charming red benches, allowing for leisurely views of Okazaki Castle and the beautiful foliage that changes with the seasons.

Jonantei is the perfect spot to catch your breath after learning about the battles and conflicts that defined the life of Tokugawa Ieyasu and the era of the samurai. So take a moment to relax, enjoy a sip of matcha, and soak in the tranquility of Okazaki Park.

The teahouse closes at 5 PM, just like the park, so it's time to head back to Higashi Okazaki Station or consider enjoying a nice dinner at one of Okazaki’s fantastic restaurants if the city's charm has convinced you to extend your stay for another day.

Conclusion

We hope you enjoy your journey exploring Okazaki, the birthplace of Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu and the hometown of Hatcho Miso. 

Hatcho Miso, a fundamental seasoning in Japanese cuisine closely associated with the great shogun, is deeply embedded in the food culture of Okazaki. By visiting Okazaki, you can learn about the traditional methods of producing Hatcho Miso and experience its rich flavors. Why not embark on a journey to enjoy a wonderful culinary experience in Okazaki?

Why not take a trip to Okazaki and enjoy some wonderful food experiences?

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・Approx. 40 minutes by train from Nagoya Station ・Approx. 70 minutes by train from Central Japan International Airport, Nagoya (NGO)